Volume 91

Illustration by Anna Vu (@goodwinecrapdrawing)
Domaine Disco
Zymo
Weissburgunder, Grauburgunder, Roter Traminer, Muscat Ottonel
Burgenland, Austria

Zymo is made with masters of maceration Gernot and Heike Heinrich at their winery in Gols, on the north-east side shore of Lake Neusiedl in Burgenland. The name is derived from Greek and represents the science of fermentation; a word with ancient origins, well-suited to this contemporary wine. 50% Roter Traminer, its aromatics quieter after two years in amphora, offers the soft tannin structure that gives the wine its final shape, blended with two other wines that bring Weißburgunder, Grauburgunder (Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris respectively), and Muscat Ottonel to the mix. The vineyards lie north-west of Lake Neusiedl on the limestone and slate soils of the Leitha Mountains, a 35km, forested ridge that traces the border between Burgenland and Lower Austria. Vines flourish in the mild, Pannonian climate, regulated by the expanse of lake that runs shy of two metres at its deepest point, giving quality fruit with good acidity. Shy on opening, Zymo quickly develops into a playful and robust summer banger. Like many of the Disco wines it refrains from highlighting the vintage (this one combines two), putting flavour first and foremost. A smooth, passionfruit crowd-pleaser, to enjoy chilled in good company.

Learn More…
Kleines Gut
2024
Merlot vom Häusle
Merlot
Württemberg, Germany

Merlot comes as something of a surprise, but in the hands of Daniel and Fredi, it takes on a different shape. The vines were planted back in 2012, by an uncle who loved Bordeaux and Burgundy, and the plot carries his memory, along with a small hut built by Daniel’s grandparents; the ‘Häusle’ this wine takes its name from. Set in the middle of the Grosse Lage Uhlbacher Götzenberg, the steep slope faces fully south, the vines protected from wind by the curve of the valley and rooted in blue marl. As harvest approaches, a close eye ensures the Merlot is picked at just the right moment, before ripeness sends the fruit towards jammy flavours and higher alcohol. The grapes were de-stemmed before three weeks in open vats, with gentle pump-overs at the beginning and end of fermentation to avoid harsh tannins, and a single punch-down half way through to bring energy to the yeasts. After pressing, the wine was transferred to used wooden barrels and left to rest for a year in the stone cellar beneath the family home. If Vin de Soif was a wine to cure thirst, Merlot vom Häusle is a wine for the dinner table. Spring violets at the edge of a forest, blackberries picked in autumn sun. Fresh and juicy with soft tannins, perfect to drink cellar-chilled at a summer barbecue.

Read More…
Stephan Krämer
2024
Pét Nat Rosé-Weiss
Regent, Bacchus
Franconia, Germany

Pét Nat Rosé-Weiss is made from 70% Regent and 30% Bacchus, a crisp wine with good acidity and a fresh, grapefruit edge. Both varieties are direct pressed before fermenting in steel tanks and blended together just a couple of days before bottling. With no disgorgement, the wine retains all its natural yeasts as well as the tartaric acid that naturally results from fermentation. Drink chilled.

Read More…