Stephan Krämer
2024
Pét Nat Rosé-Weiss
Regent, Bacchus
Franconia, Germany

Stephan and Simone Krämer run an organic farm in Auernhofen, a picturesque village in the Tauber Valley just south of the river Main. It’s a mixed farm of roughly 70 hectares with vegetables grown alongside grains, legumes and grapes. In 1989 they became certified Naturland; one of the first organic farms in Germany to obtain this certification. Initially Stephan had little interest in taking over the family farm, but his view changed when his father decided to shift the focus from large-scale production to a more holistic, sustainable approach. This was a huge change at the time — a controversial decision in a landscape of conventional farming — and one that created the need to make and sell wines, since the friend who had previously vinified the grapes had no desire to work with organic fruit. As the farm entered this new phase, Stephan found himself drawn by a philosophy that echoed his own and the opportunity to make wine. He went to train at two organic wineries (both mixed farms at the time) in Franconia and Rheinhessen, immersing himself in a hands-on approach to agriculture and winemaking, establishing a keen awareness of the soil’s vitality and the potential locked within. He became one of the first winemakers in Germany to place soil at the centre of his winemaking and produces terroir-expressive wines with an unwavering sense of place. Over three decades of experience in organic farming have led to healthy, balanced vineyards, inspired by a sense of guardianship for the earth. In Stephan’s words: ‘At a time when we are supposed to be constantly reinventing ourselves, we are relying on an increasingly solid idea’. The 4 hectares of vineyards are located in the Tauber Valley, a small, cool climate valley beside the Main river with steep slopes of up to 45°, at 400 metres above sea level. The Tauberzeller Hasennestle vineyards are pure limestone, while the site at Röttinger Feuerstein is distinguished by limestone with veins of flint — influences which shine through in the Muschelkalk and Silex series.

Pét Nat Rosé-Weiss is made from 70% Regent and 30% Bacchus, a crisp wine with good acidity and a fresh, grapefruit edge. Both varieties are direct pressed before fermenting in steel tanks and blended together just a couple of days before bottling. With no disgorgement, the wine retains all its natural yeasts as well as the tartaric acid that naturally results from fermentation. Drink chilled.

This wine is part of
 
Volume 91