Domaine Disco is ‘a walking winery’. The product of ventures across Europe — tasting straight from the barrel in the calm of a cellar, swirling varieties and layering vintages in a glass, moments of alchemy. Quality is met with creativity and the wines offer a lighthearted approach backed by skilful winemaking. Disco is the little sibling of Berlin-based Drops, an independent wine import company run by Oliver Raunjak and Christian Wochagg. It began three years ago in Burgenland alongside Adriana and Martin Lichtenberger González, in a moment of inspiration over two barrels of Grüner Veltliner. The wines balanced each other perfectly; bright acidity from one, a silky, creamy texture from the other, and after careful experimentation with ratios, ‘Lazer and Cream’ was born. Since then, Disco has teamed up with a series of winemakers to create accessible wines that carry the style of each winery. Liaison with Franz Weninger, two grapes and two vineyards, from both sides of the Austro-Hungarian border; Aqua with Weingut Zillinger, an animated Grüner Veltliner from Weinviertel, north of Vienna; and Grassnitzberg Schwert with Tement in Styria, aged for 60 months on the lees and the first wine made at Tement with no sulphur additions.
Zymo is made with masters of maceration Gernot and Heike Heinrich at their winery in Gols, on the north-east side shore of Lake Neusiedl in Burgenland. The name is derived from Greek and represents the science of fermentation; a word with ancient origins, well-suited to this contemporary wine. 50% Roter Traminer, its aromatics quieter after two years in amphora, offers the soft tannin structure that gives the wine its final shape, blended with two other wines that bring Weißburgunder, Grauburgunder (Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris respectively), and Muscat Ottonel to the mix. The vineyards lie north-west of Lake Neusiedl on the limestone and slate soils of the Leitha Mountains, a 35km, forested ridge that traces the border between Burgenland and Lower Austria. Vines flourish in the mild, Pannonian climate, regulated by the expanse of lake that runs shy of two metres at its deepest point, giving quality fruit with good acidity. Shy on opening, Zymo quickly develops into a playful and robust summer banger. Like many of the Disco wines it refrains from highlighting the vintage (this one combines two), putting flavour first and foremost. A smooth, passionfruit crowd-pleaser, to enjoy chilled in good company.