Volume 50: The juicy edition

Illustration by Anna Vu (@goodwinecrapdrawing)
Kemker Kultuur
2021
Lust no. 01-2021 “Cassis”
Apple, Blackcurrant
Münsterland, Germany

Blackcurrants and apples are combined in this playful fruit wine. The fruit is crushed and macerated overnight, before being put through a hydraulic press. Typically these fruit wines ferment from 6–9 months but, after 5 months in stainless steel, Lust was ready! Animating, juicy and with a slight rose fragrance, this is something between a gamay and a floral black tea. Harvested in 2021, it can be kept in a cool place for 2–3 years, or enjoyed immediately.

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Moritz Kissinger
2021
Null Ohm rot 2021
Pinot Noir, Dornfelder
Rheinhessen, Germany

Null Ohm rot 2021 is 60% Pinot Noir (aka Spätburgunder) and 40% Dornfelder. The Pinot Noir was macerated for eight days before being pressed over 18 hours, then aged in small 225 l barrels for 11 months. The Dornfelder had a mere two days on the skins and was aged for the same amount of time but in 2400 l Doppelstück barrels. This is a lively wine where juicy berries meet deeper, spicy and herbal notes. Drink chilled: Moritz recommends starting around 8 degrees, he guarantees that the bottle will be finished before it reaches 12!

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Weingut Schmitt
2021
Müller-Thurgau 2021
Müller-Thurgau
Rheinhessen, Germany

Müller-Thurgau 2021 is a light, aromatic wine with a slightly slower fermentation period than previous vintages. Easy drinking, unfiltered and with just the right balance of fruit and acidity. The grapes were hand harvested in late September, with 50% pressed directly and the rest left on the skins for two weeks before ageing in big oak barrels for almost a year. This wine shows the true potential of Müller-Thurgau, a grape with a mixed reputation but plenty to offer.

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