Volume 44: The old and new friends edition

Illustration by Anna Vu (@goodwinecrapdrawing)
Domaine Matassa
2021
Olla Blanc
Muscat Petit Grain, Macabeu
Roussillon, France

In Tom’s words: ‘Real wine is taking additives out of the equation and putting grapes to the front.’ Enter a thirst-quenching combo of Muscat Petit Grain and Macabeu; the former giving a floral aroma and the latter a punch of minerality, along with an addictive hint of salt. Very light and a little bit wild – drink it on the balcony while watching your tomatoes ripen.

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Glow Glow
2021
Rot
Regent, Dornfelder
Nahe, Germany

Welcome Rot, a new addition to the line which combines Regent and Dornfelder. These grapes required a lot of hand sorting due to Drosophila Suzukii, a fruit fly which can infest ripening grapes - just one example of the dedication and patience that feed this wine. Both varieties are frequently underrated, and Pauline and Carl have had their curiosity rewarded with a juicy, fruity and fun cuvée. They employed a cold maceration to achieve soft tannins and to bring out the full flavour of the fruits. Remember Weiss? This is the glowing red counterpart! Serve chilled with a lakeside picnic.

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Beck-Hartweg
2019
Tout Naturellement
Sylvaner, Pinot Blanc, Auxerrois
Alsace, France

Tout Naturellement is a blend of Sylvaner, Pinot Blanc and Auxerrois. The vines are around 60 years old, growing in deep soils of silt and sand near the village. This rich terroir yields juicy, easy-drinking grapes which were picked by hand in mid September and pressed smoothly with a pneumatic press. After that, old oak casks and natural yeasts worked their magic with a one year fermentation plus aging on the lees for a further 6 months. This is a crisp, easy-going wine, well suited as an aperitif or an accompaniment for goat’s cheese.

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