Maria and Sepp Muster began their project in 2000, on 10ha of family land that dates back to 1727. After travelling and gathering experience abroad the couple returned home to southern Styria, near the Slovenian border. Here they farm 22 hectares, making structured, mineral wines and seeing themselves ‘more as companions of the process than winemakers’. Three years after taking on the vineyards, Weingut Muster was certified biodynamic by Demeter; a testament to Maria and Sepp’s approach to farming which cultivates diversity, breaking the monoculture of vines and creating a rich environment for a whole array of plant life. The vines grow on steep slopes at an altitude of around 450 metres, guided by a single wire trellis system, also called reverse trellising, and wooden poles made from chestnut. Learning from their own experience and that of the generations before them, Maria and Sepp have found this method perfectly suited to the conditions of the region. They support the vines with biodynamic preparations such as compost teas, working symbiotically and seeing the vineyard as a living organism with the vitality of the soil at its heart. Close by lies the Koralpe, a mountain range of metamorphic rock that runs between southern Styria and eastern Carinthia, whose winds are a cooling factor during the heat of summer, playing an important role in the ripening of healthy grapes. Varieties include Sauvignon Blanc, Welschriesling, Gelber Muskateller (Yellow Muscat), Morillon (Chardonnay), Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch (Lemberger in German) and Blauer Wildbacher, also known as Schilcher.
The soil this wine grows on is known locally as Opok, clay and silt over chalky marl subsoil, to which Sauvignon is well-suited. The grapes for this ’23 Sauvignon were harvested from the lower third of the vineyards, where the proportion of clay in the soil is higher. After selecting the best fruit in the vineyard, the grapes are de-stemmed and pressed gently over the course of four hours, before fermentation in large oak barrels and a further 20 months of ageing. Bottled at the end of April, this is one of the latest releases from Maria and Sepp who recommend drinking at 12-14°C, with a large glass and plenty of time.