Volume 81

Illustration by Anna Vu (@goodwinecrapdrawing)
Glow Glow
2024
Fizzy
White blend
Mandel, Nahe

Fizzy was the only sparkling made in ’24; a wine that has become a steadfast friend, appearing yearly since the very first Glow Glow vintage was released. It has also changed the most of all the wines over the years, with each version carrying its own, individual expression. The fruit is picked throughout the harvest, from early Bacchus to late-ripening Riesling, and it’s a recurring challenge to make a blend with grapes in varying stages of juice, fermentation, and fruit still on the vine. Bacchus and Müller-Thurgau are de-stemmed and macerated overnight before pressing the following morning, Muskateller was given carbonic maceration, and Chardonnay and Riesling were both direct pressed. Bottled with a little residual sugar for continued fermentation in the bottle, before being riddled and disgorged in March ’25. The aromatic varieties give a light floral bouquet, balanced with the creamy body of Chardonnay and acidity of Riesling. A precise, joyful wine, to be enjoyed chilled as the summer nights roll in.

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Makalié
2023
Gutedel
Gutedel
Markgräflerland, Baden

Gutedel is an ancient grape variety with a humble reputation, affectionately referred to as Frühstückswein (breakfast wine) in the Markgräflerland region of Germany and known across the border in Switzerland under the French name Chasselas. Max and Karo have been making Gutedel since 2021, but this is the first vintage from a new cellar in Bad Krozingen, where they share not only equipment but the same philosophy and ideas as the other winemakers. 2023 was a challenging year, with a wet August leading to Botrytis in the white grapes and vinegar rot in the reds, along with cherry vinegar fly (Drosophila suzukii) and hail damage just weeks before harvest. Sorting the grapes, always a time-consuming task, was highly labour-intensive, but the reward is a delightfully aromatic and ready-to-drink wine. The grapes were harvested from the limestone-marl soil of Kirchberg, along with fruit from 60 year old vines in Müllheim. Whole bunches were crushed underfoot and direct pressed, 50% in amphora and the rest in small, used barrels. 5% of the berries were de-stemmed by hand and added to the amphora to give more structure and tannins. After aging on full lees for around a year, a small dose of sulphur was added before bottling. A fine example of what this grape has to offer, this one is best enjoyed chilled.

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Maria & Sepp Muster
2023
Sauvignon vom Opok
Sauvignon Blanc
Leutschach, Styria

The soil this wine grows on is known locally as Opok, clay and silt over chalky marl subsoil, to which Sauvignon is well-suited. The grapes for this ’23 Sauvignon were harvested from the lower third of the vineyards, where the proportion of clay in the soil is higher. After selecting the best fruit in the vineyard, the grapes are de-stemmed and pressed gently over the course of four hours, before fermentation in large oak barrels and a further 20 months of ageing. Bottled at the end of April, this is one of the latest releases from Maria and Sepp who recommend drinking at 12-14°C, with a large glass and plenty of time.

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