Stephan and Simone run an organic farm in Auernhofen, south of the river Main. 70 hectares of vegetables, grains and legumes make up the majority of the crops, with 4 hectares of steep, terraced vineyards in the nearby Taubertal, supplemented by grapes purchased from friends. The Taubertal is a small, cool-climate valley with steep slopes, located in what’s known as the Maindreieck (Main Triangle) at the centre of Franken’s wine region. The soil in this area dates back to the Triassic period, millions of years ago, and is rich with coloured sandstone, shell limestone and keuper. For Stephan and Simone soil comes first, with regenerative soil management and over three decades of organic farming experience leading to healthy, balanced vineyards. In Stephan’s words: ‘at a time when we are supposed to be constantly reinventing ourselves, we are relying on an increasingly solid idea’. A wide variety of grapes are cultivated in this region, but today it has the highest percentage of Silvaner plantings in the country. First recorded in the 1600s, Silvaner held widespread popularity across Germany before Müller-Thurgau took the lead in the 1970s. The prevalence of Silvaner in this region, combined with the unique and varied terroir, has become a strong part of Franken’s winemaking identity.
Silvaner 2022 is a blend from two vineyards in the Tauber valley; one that is pure shell limestone and the other planted with old vines on soils made up of vein graphite and shell limestone. The base wines ferment spontaneously in stainless steel tanks with no temperature control, and the young wines are kept on the lees for 12 months, without battonage, and blended the day before bottling. As with all of Stephan’s wines, a small, single dose of sulphur is added before bottling. A warm vintage and slow fermentation gives this wine freshness, substance, and a touch of volatile acidity. A great match with asparagus, hollandaise and potatoes. Drink chilled.