Volume 68

Illustration by Anna Vu (@goodwinecrapdrawing)
Georg Lingenfelder
2022
Morio
Morio Muscat
Pfalz, Germany

Morio Muscat is a white variety created in Pfalz; a crossing of Gelber Muskateller (Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains) and Silvaner. Once prominent in this region, its use in the mass production of sweet wines gave it a poor reputation and today roughly 200 ha remain. Georg’s grapes are from 50 year old vines on tertiary limestone; the oldest Morio Muscat vineyard in Germany. Walking through this vineyard at harvest, the air is filled with the aromatic scent of the wine itself. For the ’22 vintage, whole bunches are crushed and macerated in a cool spot for 3 days. When Georg tasted the first slightly fizzy berry, at the very beginning of fermentation, he pressed, allowing the juice to flow into the cellar via gravity. Matured in barrique for a year, with a minimal amount of sulphur added at bottling. Drink chilled.

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Krämer
2022
Silvaner
Silvaner
Franken, Germany

Silvaner 2022 is a blend from two vineyards in the Tauber valley; one that is pure shell limestone and the other planted with old vines on soils made up of vein graphite and shell limestone. The base wines ferment spontaneously in stainless steel tanks with no temperature control, and the young wines are kept on the lees for 12 months, without battonage, and blended the day before bottling. As with all of Stephan’s wines, a small, single dose of sulphur is added before bottling. A warm vintage and slow fermentation gives this wine freshness, substance, and a touch of volatile acidity. A great match with asparagus, hollandaise and potatoes. Drink chilled.

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Makalié
2022
Rosé
Pinot Noir, Cabernet Carbon
Markgräflerland, Baden, Germany

Bottled in August 2023, this ’22 rosé is made with between 10 and 20% Cabernet Carbon (a PIWI variety) picked and pressed together with Pinot Noir, which makes up the remainder. The grapes are harvested from the same plot, close to the winery. After being crushed by foot they are left to macerate overnight, before pressing the next day. For this vintage, 60% was aged in amphora and 40% in barrels, for 11 months. Light minerality, fruity and open, with notes of strawberry, cherry and hibiscus. Drink chilled.

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