Carrousel de Tête
Pfalz, Germany

With a graphic design studio on the Deutsche Weinstraße in Rheinhessen, Frederic and his family are surrounded by winemaking and in 2018 they found themselves with their own tiny plot of 30 year old vines. The Groß family have a self-declared soft spot for their region and its products - particularly those founded in passion and developed with responsibility to the planet. The Riesling vineyard is in Meckenheim; 0.1 of a hectare characterized by fast- drying, barren soil.The wines are produced using little but grapes and time, and farmed organically since the beginning. Frederic is currently working on additional project wines with friends which will be released in the coming year. It is a small project, due partly to the naturally low yield but kept that way to enable creativity, fun and the chance to blow off some steam outside the studio. Asked about their future the answer was simple: nicht größer werden, nur besser. Not bigger, only better.

This focussed approach shows in the wine. The grapes are harvested in early September and pressed in whole bunches, followed by nine months on the yeast in steel tanks. Using steel allows the grapes to speak for themselves, without the flavour of the vessel becoming part of the final product. No filtration is used and a minimal amount of sulphur is added before filling. Air for an hour pre-drinking and give it a shake before you pop the cork. If you have the patience (and willpower!) to try it over a few days, you’ll be rewarded by this wine’s ability to develop in the glass. We found a slightly smoky nose with starfruit and green apple, followed by citrus and a pleasant bitterness that goes well with creamy pasta or fried food.

This wine is part of
Volume 39: The Takeover Edition