Volume 39: The Takeover Edition

Illustration by Anna Vu (@goodwinecrapdrawing)
Domaine Sextant
2020
Skinbull
Aligoté
Burgundy, France

This year the couple went a step further with a sparkling Aligoté. The grapes were picked in early September from vineyards in Côte Chalonnaise and left on the skins for eleven days. Filled without filtration or sulphites but with enough residual sugar to start a spontaneous fermentation in the bottle, creating the delicate bubbles of a pet nat. As luck would have it, oysters are in season right now and they pair perfectly with this wine! It has a herbal, stone-fruit nose with a touch of vanilla, followed by unripe peach, thyme, and a slight saltiness that elevates any seafood.

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Carrousel de Tête
2020
Riesling
Riesling
Pfalz, Germany

This focussed approach shows in the wine. The grapes are harvested in early September and pressed in whole bunches, followed by nine months on the yeast in steel tanks. Using steel allows the grapes to speak for themselves, without the flavour of the vessel becoming part of the final product. No filtration is used and a minimal amount of sulphur is added before filling. Air for an hour pre-drinking and give it a shake before you pop the cork. If you have the patience (and willpower!) to try it over a few days, you’ll be rewarded by this wine’s ability to develop in the glass. We found a slightly smoky nose with starfruit and green apple, followed by citrus and a pleasant bitterness that goes well with creamy pasta or fried food.

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Weingut Mann
2020
Cuvée Rot
Cabernet Dorsa, Spätburgunder, Merlot
Rheinhessen, Germany

The grapes for this cuvée come from 25 year old, organic vines (the winery is certified organic since 2018, but Andi has treated his vines organically since he began making wine). The grapes are fermented on the skins in stainless steel without any punchdowns, and pressed gently with a membrane press. The wine is aged in a Doppelstück, a 2400 litre barrel, as well as some additional small barrels. This wine greets you with a spicy, cherry nose and a hint of peach leaves, followed by more cherry on the tongue. The earthiness is well balanced by silky tannins and pomegranate. Excellent with Middle Eastern food, but utterly quaffable on any winter’s night.

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