Alexandre is a small-scale producer with two hectares of parcelled and partially terraced vineyards. Born in France, he moved to Germany at 5, studying in Heidelberg as a young adult and spending time with friends in Dresden. Working at the time as a translator, Alexandre became tired of computer work and began an apprenticeship in a small family winery in Saxony. Later, a year in southern France at a biodynamic winery furthered his knowledge, and Alexandre returned to Saxony with his wife and small daughter to start his own project. Most of the vineyards in this part of East Germany were planted in the 70s and 80s by amateur winemakers. With no free market to buy preferred varieties, people grew whatever they could get their hands on, resulting in today’s patchwork-style vineyards. What was once 5000 ha of vineyards has been reduced to around 500. Inspired by this assortment of 40 year old vines, Alexandre fell in love with the idea of making field blends: one of each colour, with some yearly surprises like blanc de noir, or a red pet nat. The soil is mostly sand over granite. Arid but highly mineral, it gives the wines consistent freshness. Compost is made from the natural byproducts of the seasons: pomace after pressing, mulch after pruning, often enriched with flora from the vineyards. Made very slowly, it returns to the ground stocked with microorganisms.
Kesse Comtesse, the ‘cheeky countess’, is an animating rosé made by blending red and white varieties (‘Rotling’ in German) rather than a classic rosé from red alone. For this 2019 vintage, Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc were pressed together, while Pinot Gris was destemmed and skin-fermented with the Noir and Blanc juice. A third of each variety, fermented in inox and clay followed by maturation in inox (80%) and barrique (20%) for 10 months. A wine with acidity and reduction that goes well with a blood orange and rocket salad, and freshly ground black pepper. Drink chilled.