Volume 12: The Alsace Edition

Illustration by Anna Vu (@goodwinecrapdrawing)
Kumpf et Meyer
2017
Dark Nat
Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris
Alsace, France

This Pet Nat is different. First, it’s what is called a co-ferment — that is when red and white grapes ferment together. The grapes come from the slopes around Rosheim and Molsheim where the soil is mainly consisting of limestone clay. After the harvest in September, they macerated for seven days and were put into the bottle with 12 grams of sugar to finish fermentation in the bottle and to create the bubbles. It has some lighter mineral qualities and some beautiful tannins to keep you going with your food. It’s funky cherry coke for adults, and as such it will work with many of the best simple foods.

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Laurent Bannwarth
2015
Riesling Nature
Riesling
Alsace, France

The grapes for this white wine come from hillsides with loess and limestone. After harvest, the grapes are being direct pressed and left to age on their lees for 24 months. They only use stainless steel for this, which gives it a very pure expression. This wine has reached perfect drinkability now after two years in the bottle. If you have the time and planning skills, you should open it the day before to have it come back to life. With a golden color and light floral and fruity notes, it’s still a very mineral-driven wine which you should consume with something equally subtle like Japanese food.

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Domaine Brand & Fils
2017
La Fourmi
Gamay, Cinsault
Alsace, France

The grapes for this red wine don’t come from the Brand vineyard, but from two friends in the areas around Nimes and Lyon. Philippe, like many winemakeres right now, likes to use grapes from friends, and also sometimes shares his grapes with other winemakers. The whole grapes are being macerated for ten days after which they are pressed and left in demi-muid barrels (450 litre) for eight months of maturation. With about one year in the bottle, you get some excellent aromas of ripe fruit and flowers followed by light but structured tannins. For a change try this one with various cheeses or your typical French bistro fare.

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