If you take the train along the Mosel valley, be sure to find a window seat. As the tracks follow the curve of the river, tracing it upstream from Koblenz towards Luxembourg, the verdant green of vineyards and forest stretch as far as the eye can see, villages dotted along the water’s edge and hilltop castles outlined against the sky. On a sweeping, 180° bend in the river sits Kröv, home to Staffelter Hof. The name dates back to 862 A.D. when the vineyards were part of an abbey, making this the oldest, still-operating winery in the world. After the French Revolution, with the territories on the left bank of the Rhine in French hands, Napoleon confiscated the land. Purchased in 1805 by Peter Schneider, the winery began its family journey and, seven generations later, is safe in the hands of Jan Klein. With winemaking studies and experience in France, Australia and New Zealand behind him, Jan steered the estate through organic conversion, with an ecological focus that led to the introduction of natural wines and the establishment of ‘WeinWald’, a vitiforestry project centred around healthy soils, resilient vines and a vibrant ecosystem. Four hectares of PIWI grape varieties, hardy hybrids that require fewer treatments and cope well with weather fluctuations, have been planted alongside hundreds of trees and shrubs, scattered with bird and bat boxes to encourage biodiversity. Along with his parents, head viticulturist Kosie Van Der Merwe (who also makes wine as Nomad Wines) and a dedicated team, Jan is continuing the story of a historic winery and planting a polyculture that will carry it into the future.
This summer saw the release of a new line of single-variety PIWI wines from this project: The Grape Resistance. Satin Noir 2024 is one of these, its deep red grapes giving Beaujolais vibes and blackberry notes. The grapes were picked in late September and de-stemmed before three weeks on the skins, the fruit submerged in its own juice with punch downs twice a day, before aging in used barrels for eight months. Easygoing but with a satisfyingly rustic edge, it’s a great match for grilled game or sausages with hot sauce.