Last year was marked by severe drought in the Corbières Catalanes, where Jess Albero and Laurent Pujol farm 7.5 hectares of vines in a landscape of scrubland, olive trees, and rock. Their plots are spread across soils of clay, marl and schist, planted with Macabeu, Mourvèdre, Muscat (Petits Grains and Alexandria), Grenache Noir and Syrah. With soaring temperatures, Jess and Laurent have begun practicing ‘vendanges en vert’, green harvesting, to support the vines through the hot, dry summers. After spring flowering, when each tiny, self-pollinated flower forms a single berry, clusters are thinned to reduce competition for essential water and nutrients. The final yield is lower, but the vines are able to re-distribute sap to the remaining grapes, allowing them to develop fully and leading to healthy, balanced fruit at harvest time. Recerca, the project that took shape a few years after Zulu was founded, now lies at the heart of Jess and Laurent’s daily work and is the focus of their efforts, but Zulu continues to evolve; alongside collaborations with winemaker friends, they are also developing Zulu cuvées from AB certified, purchased grapes, which they vinify themselves. From the beginning of their journey as growers and winemakers, Jess and Laurent have wanted to preserve Macabeu, a variety that originates in Spain but has long thrived in southern France. With multiple plots of 60 year old Macabeu, growing a kilometer apart on marl and clay, they’ve had the opportunity to explore its potential as a single variety wine.
Golem 2023 is 100%, skin contact Macabeu. Like all the macerations at Recerca, it’s made with whole bunch maceration, skins, stems and seeds all playing their part in the structure and flavour of the wine. Less aromatic than a typical Macabeu, Golem is salty and powerful, with a light oxidative note that makes it a great bottle to enjoy with food. Drink chilled.