Moritz Kissinger farms in the Rhine valley, producing fresh, mineral wines with a sublime complexity. The 13 hectares of vineyards are scattered, with some parcels based around Uelversheim and the rest unfolding south from Oppenheim towards Guntersblum along the west bank of the river. Moritz and his parents share the vineyard management in a collaborative, family effort to spread the workload. Moritz and his father, Jürgen, converted to organic farming in 2015, driven by the motto ‘diversity is resilient’. They are constantly pushing to increase biodiversity and to strengthen the dynamic ecosystem in their vineyards, firm in the belief that healthy soil fuels healthy grapes. They work with a deep commitment to regenerative agriculture, supporting their soil with cover crops, compost and a ‘no till’ philosophy. The compost is made from pomace (the solids left after grape pressing), cow manure and their own grass, and is heaped in small piles. These are turned frequently, feeding oxygen to the sensitive microorganisms within which are essential to the development of healthy compost.
Null Ohm Weiß ’22 is made with 40% Chardonnay and 60% Pinot Blanc, aka Weissburgunder. The grapes are harvested from different plots and at different stages, creating a delectable balance of freshness, structure and ripeness. It’s a wine which reflects the Kissingers’ philosophy and the region itself, including all the terroirs the winery works with: loess, chalk and clay. Aged for 10 months in the barrel and given one month in inox before bottling, it’s a crisp wine with intense acidity and, in Moritz’s words: ‘the ID of Ulversheim’. Drink around 8 degrees with corn doused in butter and salt.