The Dão river begins its journey in the small parish of Eirado in north-east Portugal, carving its way south-west through granite until it reaches the Mondego river. The vineyards planted on the hillsides of the Dão valley form one of the oldest of Portugal’s 14 wine regions — a country with over 250 indigenous grape varieties. Quinta da Boavista lies on the southern slopes of the river Dão, a family estate that dates back to 1650. After studying viticulture, João Tavares de Pina returned here in 1990 to live among the vines and continue the family tradition. Together with his wife Luísa, João is making a rehabilitative effort to return a significant amount of the land to its natural state. Alongside older vines they have created a nursery where they grow native, near-lost varieties. The vines grow at around 500m, surrounded by oak, pine, and eucalyptus and sheltered by mountains which temper the climate. Clover, chamomile, lavender and serradella stabilise the soil while protecting the vines from disease. ‘Without a strong ecosystem’ João says, ‘we have nothing’. In addition to the old granitic soils typical of this region, João has plots with even older origins; shale and clay from 500 million year old marine sediments. These ancient soils give the wines minerality, while the clay content of the soil aids the development of the vines.
Rufia Branco 2022 is made with just over 50% Encruzado, along with Cerceal Branco, Malvasia Fina and Bical. The different varieties were harvested on the same day in early September, de-stemmed, direct pressed and fermented together in stainless steel. After ageing for around 8 months on the lees, the wine was bottled. Despite there being no skin fermentation, it has an amber glow that comes from the short contact between the juice and the golden skins of the grapes whilst in the press. A refreshing wine with mandarin peel, apricot, herbs and honey, and a great match for sardines topped with raw onion and a drop of vinegar!