Raised just south of Stuttgart, Horst Hummel was captivated by Burgundian wines in his early twenties and began visiting winemakers with a keen interest. In the 90s he travelled to Vojvodina in Serbia, where his great-grandfather had once been a winegrower, returning via Hungary with winemaking firmly on his mind. Tasting in a cellar in Paks and visiting a vineyard nearby fuelled Horst’s curiosity. Back in Berlin, where he worked as a lawyer and then a writer, he began researching Hungarian wine, the books confirming that the best region for producing serious reds was Villány. In autumn ‘97, Horst visited Villány for the first time and was struck by a sense of undiscovered, world class terroir. The following spring he returned with the decision to found a winery, and began exploring the vineyards to better understand which plots to take on. With the landscape of Burgundy’s premier and grand cru sites as a reference point, he selected plots on moderate slopes, on loess and limestone beneath Szársomlyó, the highest peak of the Villány Mountains.
Although his focus was initially red wines, Horst began producing whites early on, starting with Chardonnay and allowing a curious mind to lead the way to other varieties. After tasting Hárslevelü for the first time, he instantly fell for the depth of flavour and floral nature of the variety, named ‘linden leaf’ and often carrying the aroma of the linden tree. He purchased grapes the following year, but the fresh, direct press wine he produced was missing something, and he had almost given up when a friend advised that Hárslevelü needs skins, that it is ‘the red variety among the whites’. Skin maceration gave the result Horst had been looking for: a creamy, smooth and serious wine, and over the years he has experimented with varying ratios. The 2024 vintage was made with whole bunches, half direct press and half 5 day skin contact; a balance which gives a satisfying structure and complexity. Drink slightly chilled.