Hannes Bergdoll’s love of agriculture began in childhood, born into a farming family in southern Pfalz and growing up surrounded by the rich viticulture of Germany’s second-largest wine region. At 18, Hannes began a winemaking apprenticeship followed by studies in viticulture and oenology. During his studies, Hannes began to cultivate and experiment with a few vineyards, releasing his first vintage in 2016: one hectare of vines and 5000 bottles. These earlier vintages were made in an old converted garage and Hannes recalls the years that followed as a ‘wild phase of trial and error’. The wines have gradually evolved, from a more classic approach with filtration and a little more sulphur to the unfiltered wines and skin contact whites of 17/18. Hannes started using biodynamic methods early on and in 2018 he became certified Demeter, seeking a unified approach in both vineyard and cellar, and a more natural product. 2022 saw the introduction of a new visual concept with labels from design studio Konrad Gustav Paula, run by Frederic Groß and his team in Pfalz who also make wine as ‘Carrousel de Tête’. Over the years, Hannes has very much found his own style, making wines that are not only accessible and well-balanced, but that offer their own distinctive character. The Lau line is easygoing, while the more terroir-expressive whites and reds reflect the geological history of the soils they were grown on. Open-minded and attentive, there is no doubt that Hannes’ diligence is fundamental to the quality of his wines.
Named after the coloured sandstone it was grown on, this Riesling is from east-facing slopes on the edge of the Pfälzerwald (Palatinate Forest) with a higher altitude than the majority of the vineyards. Sun only reaches these vines in the mornings and the grapes ripen later in the harvest; 2022 saw the golden yellow fruit gathered at the end of October, still with great acidity. After a short maceration the grapes were pressed and aged in old wooden barrels for 12 months, before bottling with a minimal dose of sulphur. After a few months in the bottle, it was ready to release — a delightful balance of fruit, the acidity typical of the variety, and lots of character. Flinty and slightly smoky on the nose, it calls to mind freshly sliced citrus with a herbal touch, light spiciness and a creamy mouthfeel. Very much ready to drink, it’s a great match for bitter leaves dressed with (full-fat) yoghurt and toasted sunflower seeds. Drink chilled.