The Carroget family have been making wine for decades, farming vines on the northern bank of the river Loire, between Anjou and Nantes. Open to new ideas, Jacques and Agnès Carroget ventured abroad together to explore different winemaking regions, including some years in Tokaj, a Hungarian region renowned for its botrytized wine, Tokaji. In the early 90s the couple returned home to the Loire valley, and began to convert the estate to organic viticulture. The domaine received organic certification in 1997, followed by a series of steps which reflect their deep commitment to nature and agriculture. In 2000 they obtained the Agriculture Biologique (AB) label and started to produce wine without sulphur the following year, and from 2009 they began to use biodynamic practices, influenced by Rudolf Steiner’s holistic view of nature. Over the years, they have found that these methods reduce soil erosion and combat diseases afflicting the vines; problems which conventional farming had failed to achieve. Marie Carroget joined her parents in 2021, taking the family estate into its 6th generation. A small flock of Ouessant sheep graze the vineyards in winter, a heritage breed that takes its name from the French island where they originate. Maran hens peck their way through the plots, and oats and clover are sown as green manure; both of which have allelopathic qualities and play an important role in the health of the soil. Across the 9 hectares, perches encourage small, insect-feeding birds to maintain their place in the ecosystem, feasting on the larvae of grape moths.
Table 2023 was made with 100% Gamay, harvested from each of the estate’s Gamay plots and given five days of carbonic maceration. The soil here is Ancenis schist, a type specifically found in Coteaux d'Ancenis — one of the appellations which the La Paonnerie vineyards straddle, along with Anjou and Muscadet. Cassis on the nose and light in the mouth, this juicy, bright wine is a delight to drink, with or without food. Enjoy slightly chilled.