Volume 72

Illustration by Anna Vu (@goodwinecrapdrawing)
Carrousel de Tête
2023
Blanc
Silvaner, Riesling
Meckenheim, Pfalz, Germany

Blanc 2023 is harvested from the same vineyard as the previous Blancs, a plot referred to as ‘in den Kieslöchern’ where the relatively barren ground is made up of sand, pebbles and a thin layer of clay. Two thirds Silvaner gives structure and light tannins, while the remaining third of Riesling offers a delicate oxidation. Unlike the ’22 vintage, the grapes were left to ferment for two days before pressing. Bottled in July, with a total of 25mg sulphur added. Pineapple juice meets well-balanced acidity, chill to 12-14° and decant before enjoying with your next round of Wurstsalat.

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Soma Vines
2022
Hang On Pet Nat
Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay
Rheinhessen, Germany

The grapes for Hang On were picked at the beginning of September ’22, from Weingut Nägele in Baden. The 40-year-old vines grow on clay and calcareous soil and are farmed organically. Kept in the cold overnight, the grapes underwent a cold maceration and were pressed the following day. The juice, 50/50 Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc, was transferred into 500l old oak barrels to ferment and age. The wine is undisgorged, leaving yeast particles inside the bottle that give it a slightly cloudy appearance. Tiny bubbles with a floral touch, chill with the bottle standing upright before drinking.

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Haus GuPi
2022
Grisant
Pinot Noir
Markgräflerland, Baden, Germany

The grapes for Grisant ’22 grow on southwesterly slopes, old vines where picking starts early to create a fresh, juicy Pinot. Although generally a warm year, hail in July meant plenty of sorting in the vineyard during harvest to ensure only the healthiest grapes reached the winery. After 4 days of carbonic maceration, the grapes were pressed while still retaining some sweetness and continued fermentation in the barrel. Aged for 12 months followed by 6 months in stainless steel, this wine has lovely red fruit and whispers of wild strawberries. Drink chilled.

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