Volume 63: the salon edition

Illustration by Anna Vu (@goodwinecrapdrawing)
Cidrerie de Reillon
Côte 303
Apples, quince
Lorraine, France

This cider takes its name from ‘la côte 303’, a hill above the village of Reillon where Grég planted his first orchard. It’s a name that comes from WWI military maps and, for the young cidermaker, is part of the story of the villagers who returned in 1919 to rebuild houses, cultivate fields, replant trees and continue the heritage which he now shares. Twenty different apple varieties make up two thirds of the juice, met with a third of quince. The apple and quince are pressed separately and combined around 24 hours later, with fermentation starting after a few days. Grég intentionally slowed the fermentation from October to February, with slight filtration and rackings to reduce the amount of yeast and to develop a calm but still very much alive cider for bottling. A second fermentation in the bottle, and the cider was ready by summer. Aromatic, elegant and juicy with a little extra kick from the quince. Drink around 7°.

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Yannick Meckert
Pinot Noir Grrrr
Pinot Noir
Alsace, France

Usually Yannick makes Pinot Noir that expresses individual terroir but this one mixes different plots, stacking schist with sandstone, clay and sedimentary. Mostly négoce grapes, with just a little of his own Pinot, it’s a sun-influenced wine that’s rich in tannins. All the wines were vinified separately, with one week of whole bunch maceration followed by daily punch downs for a further week, all in open vats before going into old Burgundy barrels. Deeper in colour and fruit than most Pinots, Pinot Noir Grrrr ’22 is full of character and well-balanced with a touch of volatility that’s a signature of Yannick’s wines. Decant to soften the tannins and enjoy at 14–16°.

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Domaine La Bohème
Auvergne, France

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