Volume 61: the autumn edition

Illustration by Anna Vu (@goodwinecrapdrawing)
Roterfaden
2022
Riesling
Riesling
Württemberg, Germany

Riesling ‘22 was a great vintage with an abundant yield and good acidity. Typically a late ripener, Olympia and Hannes harvest Riesling early; the drystone walls of the terraces absorb and hold the sun’s heat and, combined with well-balanced biodynamic care, the grapes ripen slowly but fully, with low alcohol and no harsh acidity. The grapes are crushed underfoot, left for a day on the skins before pressing and given almost a year on full lees. A small amount of sulphur is added at bottling to guarantee a safe onward journey, ensuring that ‘no matter who opens the bottle, it's still the wine we made.’ A bright wine with straightforward acidity, a herbal touch and a hint of lemon.

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Carrousel de Tête
2022
Orange
Muskateller, Scheurebe, Riesling
Pfalz, Germany

Orange 2022 is made with approximately 50/50 Muskateller and Scheurebe from a friend’s vineyard, harvested together and fermented on the skins for around 14-16 days. 20% was aged for 6 months in small, used old Jack Daniel’s barriques, with the rest in fiberglass. 10% Riesling was added at bottling to give the wine juiciness and acidity. An aromatic, well-structured orange wine with a light bitterness and an excellent partner for grilled peaches and goats’ cheese. Beautiful from the bottle, but also fun to experiment with in a decanter. Enjoy at 12-14°.

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Domaine Matassa
2022
Olla Rouge
Grenache Noir, Grenache Gris, Macabeu
Roussillon, France

At 11% ABV, Olla Rouge 2022 is another wonderfully fresh, light red from Tom, made with a healthy dose of white grapes. 60% Grenache Noir, 20% Grenache Gris and 20% Macabeu, all from vines rooted in clay and limestone soil, are fermented and aged in concrete tanks. Flavours of red berries with a touch of Mediterranean herbs and flowers, and just the right amount of wildness. Great with grilled eggplant and octopus, drink slightly chilled.

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