Volume 57: the apple, quince and grapes edition

Illustration by Anna Vu (@goodwinecrapdrawing)
Kemker Kultuur
2021
Appelwien Blend no. 04-2021 Quince
Apple, quince
Münsterland, Germany

Appelwien 04-2021 is a blend of roughly 75% apples and 25% quinces. 2021 was an ideal year for apples: rain fell every other week and temperatures were tranquil, meaning a calm ripening of the fruit with plenty of sugar balanced by good acidity. The acidity helps natural cider retain a fresh, clean appeal, without the funkiness that can occur in the absence of additives. The fruit for this blend was harvested from orchards in Laer, Alverskirchen and Rinkerode. Each apple and quince plucked from the tree is considered with the question: would I eat it? If the answer is yes, then it’s good enough to drink! After being crushed, the fruit pulp is macerated for one night before being gently pressed. The juice ferments for two weeks, then transferred into barrels; for this vintage, old Pinot Blanc barrels. After 7 months the dry cider was bottled with a dosage added to encourage carbonisation. Refreshing and aromatic, it’s a little like Chenin Blanc and a fantastic match for fennel salad dressed with olive oil and lemon. Drink chilled, at 7-8 degrees.

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Claus Preisinger
2022
Kalk und Kiesel weiss
Grüner Veltliner, Muskateller, Pinot Blanc
Burgenland, Austria

Kalkundkiesel weiss 2022 is a skin contact wine made with Grüner Veltliner, Muskateller and Pinot Blanc. ‘Kalk and Kiesel’ translates as ‘limestone and gravel’ - and this wine is a fine example of its terroir. Aged in used oak and amphora (Claus was the first Austrian to use Georgian qvevri) it’s a serious, light amber wine with a fresh citrus feel alongside structure and great tannins. Drink at 10-12 degrees with a dish garnished with capers and parmesan.

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Cèdric Perraud
2022
Goccia Rosso
Nerello Mascalese
Etna, Sicily

Goccia Rosso 2022 is made with 100% Nerello Mascalese; a variety thought to have originated in Sicily and one of the main red varieties grown on Etna. The grapes are harvested at the end of September, from Randazzo and Milo. After 10 days of maceration the juice is transferred to steel tanks, where it rests until bottling in May. A wonderful, medium-bodied wine with fine tannins and dark red fruit. Classic Etna on the nose and fresh on the tongue! Enjoy at 14 - 16 degrees with grilled tomato.

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