Volume 38: The Refined Edition

Illustration by Anna Vu (@goodwinecrapdrawing)
Moritz Kissinger
Null Ohm
Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc
Rheinhessen, Germany

The 0 Ohm is a cuvée both of grapes and the soils in which they are founded. Chardonnay growing on the Rhine front in lime and loess joins Weissburgunder (aka Pinot Blanc) from loam soil in the Uelversheim vineyards. The result is a delicate wine with a fresh minerality and sound structure: a living wine, from living soil. Spontaneously fermented grapes are left on the lees for ten months in small, oak barrels before being bottled, unfiltered, with a small amount of sulphite. The nose is buttery, with a slightly woodiness and is followed by citrus, unripe apple and passion fruit on the tongue. Decant half an hour before drinking and team it with Spaghetti alle vongole or fried fish.

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Weingut Galler
Pet Nat
Pfalz, Germany

The Riesling vines grow amid rows of greening – wildflowers and plants which stimulate wildlife and stabilise the soil. A ‘hedge cut’ is used, which encourages the wood to grow in a way that protects the small grapes from hailstorms. These grapes were picked in early October 2016 and gently pressed before being spontaneously fermented in stainless steel tanks. Disgorged after 9 months, the Pet Nat is then matured in the bottle where the fermentation continues. The nose is something like an aged champagne with subtle hints of thyme and ripe apples. It has a well-balanced acidity with the sweet and bitter notes of grapefruit in the mouth, along with pear and herbal tea. Chill at 8 ° C, open shortly before drinking and enjoy as an aperitif, or pair with pumpkin or mushroom risotto.

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Domaine Flo Busch
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Grenache, Carignan
Languedoc, France

This bottle combines Grenache and Carignan, the former harvested at the end of August and the latter in late September. These are 30-40 year old vines growing at around 90 metres and pruned with the Gobelet technique – a traditional method for the area which protects the grapes from a harsh sun. It’s an area dominated by limestone, sandstone and river pebbles seared with quartz. Two week maceration, ten months in old wood barriques, minimal sulphites, then bottled unfiltered. A regular pump-over or ‘remontages’ is engaged, where fermenting must from the bottom of the barrel is pumped to the surface in order to submerge the ‘chapeau’ or cap of grape skins. What does this do? Increases the extraction of tannins and leads to balanced structure and a beautiful colour. With an initial waft of elderberry and blackberry, this bottle quickly develops into juicy cherries and a little sloe. Silky smooth with an irresistible grip. It might just be me, but can you detect the fragrant scrub flowers? Drink this one at 16-18°, with light meat dishes or cassoulet.

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