Volume 79

Illustration by Anna Vu (@goodwinecrapdrawing)
Martin Hirsch
2022
Vom Siebenerlei
Dornfelder, Domina
Franconia

Vom Siebenerlei ’22 is from Martin’s first vintage, from a plot named Siebenerlei by his grandmother. She often said there were seven different kinds of soil here; a special piece of land where the vegetables she planted flourished. It is a fresh, animating red with 70% Dornfelder and 30% Domina, the latter a less widely known variety that was first cultivated in the early 1900s in Germany; a crossing of Blauer Portugieser and Spätburgunder grown mainly in Franconia. The grapes were direct pressed and aged for 10 months in stainless steel, before bottling with no added sulfur. Crisp and with bursts of redcurrant, this is one to drink lightly chilled with spicy noodles or Turkish flatbread topped with sucuk. Best opened an hour or so in advance.

Learn More…
Stephan Krämer
2023
Keuper & Kalk
Bacchus, Müller-Thurgau, Johanniter
Franconia

Keuper and Kalk is named after the soils it is rooted in, a crisp blend of Bacchus, Müller-Thurgau and Johanniter that’s perfect for the arrival of warmer days. Aromatic and fruit-driven with a touch of jasmine blossom, it’s a great match for spring greens, kohlrabi and toasted sunflower seeds. Drink chilled.

Read More…
Wein Goutte
2023
Newstalgia
Müller-Thurgau, Domina
Franconia

Newstalgia 2023 is a rotling; a blend of red and white grapes co-fermented and pressed together. 60% Müller-Thurgau and 40% Domina were harvested from a friend’s nearby farm – an unusual combination that captures the essence of the place, which is in conversion to organic. The grapes, grown on Keuper, were destemmed and macerated together for three days where they began a light fermentation before pressing. After 11 months in 500l barrels, the wines were bottled at the end of August ’24 with a microdose of sulfur. Six months more, and they were ready for release. Sealed with organic beeswax from Christoph’s village in Württemberg and adorned with another distinctive label from designer Simon Roy, this is an earnest wine with a deep savoury note that makes it a great dinner companion. In Emily’s words, it’s a wine that eagerly awaits barbecue season, friend to peak summer’s tomato-pepper train, best buddy to juicy, dripping grilled pork, and shining bright amid bowls of beetroot hummus and muhammara. Open an hour in advance and drink slightly chilled.

Read More…